# Avant-Garde Trend, Spring 2027 Runways Source: https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/avant-garde Data refreshed: October 3, 2026 Avant-Garde appeared in 31.6% of looks at the SS27 womenswear shows, down from 36.9% in SS26. 293 designers showed it across 3,233 looks. ## Numbers - Share of looks: 31.6% - Share in SS26: 36.9% - Change: −5.3 pts (fading) - Looks: 3,233 - Designers: 293 - Rank: #1 of 54 key themes by share of looks ## In the press Avant-Garde came up in 88 articles from WWD, Vogue, CNN and 24 more. In the data it was in 31.6% of looks, down from 36.9% in SS26. - WWD, 2026-09-22: [Erdem, Simone Rocha, Steve O Smith Wow Buyers at Spring 2027 London Fashion Week](https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/erdem-simone-rocha-steve-o-smith-buyers-spring-2027-london-1239251521/). Deconstruction is named a key idea, from Simone Rocha and Erdem to a McQueen gown with unravelling tulle. - WWD, 2026-09-14: [Quick Takes From the Spring 2027 Luxury and Alternative Collections at NYFW](https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/spring-2027-luxury-collections-nyfw-1239200391/). Grace Ling integrated technological construction with distorted silhouettes, while Jane Wade developed a leather gown with chainmail. - Vogue, 2026-09-07: [4 Key Takeaways From Tokyo Fashion Week SS27](https://www.vogue.com/article/4-key-takeaways-from-tokyo-fashion-week-ss27). Sonia Carrasco brought a collection of deconstructed tailoring to Tokyo through the RUN x Andam showroom. - Vogue, 2026-10-01: [Rick Owens Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/rick-owens). Rick Owens closed with unusual tulle and elastic structures derived from earlier exoskeleton experiments. - CNN, 2026-09-30: [Here’s what’s happening at Paris Fashion Week](https://www.cnn.com/2026/09/30/style/paris-fashion-week-highlights-from-the-shows). Rick Owens threaded tulle onto elastic cords to form moving, tentacle-like dresses. - InStyle, 2026-09-28: [The Best Designer Looks of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 From Prada, Gucci, and More](https://www.instyle.com/best-milan-fashion-week-looks-spring-summer-2027-12142549). MM6 Maison Margiela shifted shirts into skirts and trousers into dresses. - Who What Wear, 2026-09-28: [6 Designers From London Fashion Week You Should Know, According to An Expert](https://www.whowhatwear.com/fashion/trends/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027-best-emerging-designers). Agro Studio explored transparency and light refraction through couture methods. - Fashionista, 2026-09-23: [The 8 Coolest Trends From London Fashion Week Spring 2027](https://fashionista.com/2026/09/london-fashion-week-spring-2027-trends). Fashionista linked London experimentation to organza reworking, visible handcraft and unconventional garment combinations. - Wallpaper*, 2026-09-16: [These were the best shows of New York Fashion Week S/S 2027](https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/best-shows-new-york-fashion-week-ss-2027-review-roundup). Ashlyn explored square-cloth construction, while Lii folded and twisted familiar garments. - ELLE, 2026-08-06: [At Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scandi Style Comes Into Focus](https://www.elle.com/runway/a73345743/copenhagen-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027-trends/). Institution twisted a blazer backward with near-cartoonish shoulders and used Georgian tetri coins in place of sequins on an openwork top. - Wallpaper*: [These were the best shows of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2027](https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/best-shows-milan-fashion-week-ss-2027-review-round-up). MM6 dismantled the unwritten rules of clothing, wearing belted skirts around the chest and a sweater as a skirt. - Dazed, 2026-09-29: [In pictures: Julie Kegels SS27 wasn’t bowed by the weight of expectation](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71062/1/julie-kegels-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-lvmh-prize). Julie Kegels used gravity as a design idea, pulling heavier clothes downward and letting lighter gowns float. - Dazed, 2026-09-29: [It’s plain sailing at Hodkova’s SS27 sea-inspired show](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71065/1/hodkova-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-sea-inspired-show-ocean). Hodakova used sails, rope knots and fishing nets as garment materials. - AnOther, 2026-09-21: [Grandiose and Brutal, Seán McGirr Brings McQueen Back to London](https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/17489/sean-mcgirr-mcqueen-review-spring-summer-2027-london-fashion-week). McQueen combined sculpted tailoring, winglike gown volumes and substantial silver harnesses. - RUSSH, 2026-10-01: [All the highlights from Paris Fashion Week SS27](https://www.russh.com/paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027-highlights/). Hodakova used sails, rope and fishing nets for clothing; Julie Kegels explored the appearance of falling garments. - Forbes, 2026-09-24: [London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027: Key Trends To Know](https://www.forbes.com/sites/laiafarrangraves/2026/09/24/london-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-key-trends-to-know/). Alison Lai brought surreal film references and an experimental approach to feminine tailoring. - Vogue Business, 2026-09-22: [London Is So Back: Key Takeaways From Spring/Summer 2027](https://www.vogue.com/article/london-is-so-back-key-takeaways-from-spring-summer-2027). Fashion East designers retained unusual craft and garment details while improving commercial wearability. - WWDJAPAN, 2026-09-18: [The possibilities of the Tokyo collections, born of chaos and energy [SS27 Tokyo Collections]](https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/2497555). Pillings used bleeding thread dyes and deliberately distorted textiles to explore uncertain memories and the boundary between dreams and daily life. - WWDJAPAN, 2026-09-18: [Beyond showing clothes: conveying inspiration, technique and character through shows [SS27 Tokyo]](https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/2497568). ENFÖLD translated exposed architectural systems into clothing built from layers with contrasting textures. - TheIndustry.fashion, 2026-09-17: [LFW SS27: Highlights from Paul Costelloe, Agro Studio, Keburia and more...](https://www.theindustry.fashion/lfw-ss27-highlights-from-paul-costelloe-agro-studio-keburia-and-more/). Agro Studio manipulated textiles and discarded buttons to produce optical distortion. - Whitewall, 2026-09-17: [NYFW Gets Emotional, Turning Feeling Into Form for Spring/Summer 2027](https://whitewall.art/fashion/spring-summer-2027-nyfw-kate-barton-pdf-hila/). Caroline Zimbalist used biomaterials that formed irregular growths within traditional textiles. - Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO, 2026-09-03: [Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2027 SS Wednesday 9/2 Report](https://rakutenfashionweektokyo.com/en/topics/information/art_20260902_01/). Pillings transformed familiar shirts and knits through deliberate distortions that connected ordinary life with imagined scenes. - FashionUnited: [From mermaids and athletic nomads: SS27 trends from Tokyo](https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/from-mermaids-and-athletic-nomads-ss27-trends-from-tokyo/2026090890213). RequaL and Mitsuru Okazaki multiplied or relocated collars, and Seivson took apart a pleated piece to rebuild it as an asymmetric coat dress. - Numéro Netherlands: [The Diversity of Tokyo’s Spring Summer 2027 Fashion Week](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/the-diversity-of-tokyos-spring-summer-2027-fashion-week). Enföld reshaped familiar garments through pleats, sculpture and unusual uniform references. - Numéro Netherlands: [Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027: Day 4](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-4). Alainpaul deconstructed garments and stage costumes; Balenciaga applied couture methods to ordinary clothing. - METAL Magazine: [Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo S/S 2027](https://metalmagazine.eu/en/post/rakuten-tokyo-fashion-week-ss-2027-our-favourite-collections). Orimi played with tailoring rules: a jacket opened into a draped panel and shorts were shaped like oversized sleeves. - VRAI Magazine, 2026-10-02: [An Air of Playfulness and Spatial Beauty: Issey Miyake SS27 at PFW](https://www.vraimagazine.com/issey-miyake-ss27-at-pfw/). Issey Miyake investigated wearable body forms and air-filled silhouettes. - Vogue Japan, 2026-09-10: [Pillings: a fantastical world growing out of small everyday oddities [Spring/Summer 2027 Tokyo Collection]](https://www.vogue.co.jp/article/pillings-27ss). Pillings deliberately transferred thread dyes into fabric and altered garment shapes to blur daily life with fantasy. - Vogue Runway, 2026-09-09: [Viviano Tokyo Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2027/viviano). Viviano combined exaggerated pannier shapes and dreamlike styling with clothing designed to remain wearable. - Vogue Runway, 2026-09-04: [Sonia Carrasco Tokyo Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2027/sonia-carrasco). Tailoring was taken apart: basting stitches stayed visible and trouser seams faced outward to show the inner construction. - Fashionsnap, 2026-09-03: [pillings 2027 Spring/Summer Collection](https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/pillings/2027ss/). Pillings moved from distorted everyday separates to elaborate floral forms, blurring remembered scenes with fantasy. - Fashionsnap, 2026-08-31: [ENFÖLD 2027 Spring/Summer Collection](https://www.fashionsnap.com/collection/enfold/2027ss/). ENFÖLD translated construction-site structures into layered clothes with sharp shoulders, box-shaped skirts and exposed tool pockets. - Fashion Forum, 2026-08-06: [Spotted: Collina Strada’s rococo nymphs in the metropolis](https://fashionforum.dk/2026/08/06/spotted-collina-stradas-rococo-nymphs-in-the-metropolis/). Collina Strada transformed stored textiles through elaborate folding, sculpting and layering into unfamiliar body shapes. - Fashion Forum, 2026-08-05: [Institution turned cultural memory into sculptural fashion](https://fashionforum.dk/2026/08/05/institution-turned-cultural-memory-into-sculptural-fashion/). Institution exposed garment foundations and reshaped the body through exaggerated hips, pleating and architectural knitwear. - ANSA, 2026-06-20: [La moda nella rete di Setchu alla Milano Fashion Week](https://www.ansa.it/sito/notizie/cultura/moda/2026/06/20/la-moda-nella-rete-di-setchu-alla-milano-fashion-week_de3f2bfa-1f22-4466-b44a-cdb8fa610290.html). Setchu combined circular openings, stretched jersey and long nets in handmade clothing. - nss magazine: [Dries Van Noten SS27 in Paris: a Belgian summer of colour and psychedelia](https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/47077/light-and-air-in-dries-van-noten-s-ss27-collection). Dries Van Noten combined color, fabric and shape in a layered proposal the reviewer described as highly experimental. - WWD, 2026-10-01: [Rick Owens Spring 2027: In This Column](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/paris/rick-owens/review/). Rick Owens made elastic-threaded tulle structures that enclosed the body and changed shape with movement. - Vogue, 2026-09-29: [Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/marie-adam-leenaerdt). Marie Adam-Leenaerdt gave everyday clothing unusual forms, including wire-supported skirts and jackets shaped like padded shopping bags. - Vogue, 2026-09-29: [Anrealage Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/anrealage). Morinaga's experimental tech and material innovation sit at the core of his avant-garde approach, from color-changing E-ink dresses to LED bodysuits. - Vogue, 2026-09-28: [Hodakova Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/hodakova). Hodakova remade trousers as a dress and jacket, and used sails, rope and fishing nets as clothing materials. - Vogue, 2026-09-28: [Julie Kegels Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/julie-kegels). Julie Kegels explored gravity through falling garments, weighted dresses and pigment released through organza. - Vogue, 2026-09-26: [Act No.1 Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/act-no-1). Everyday garments are taken apart and rebuilt with a subtly altered logic. - WWD, 2026-09-26: [Act N.1 Spring 2027: Twist but Don’t Shout](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/milan/act-n-1/review/). Act N.1 finished with a sculptural bamboo-covered qipao. - Vogue, 2026-09-25: [Institution By Galib Gassanoff Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/institution-by-galib-gassanoff). Institution by Galib Gassanoff transformed intact scarf squares into folded garments. - Vogue, 2026-09-24: [Marni Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/marni). Cutaways, visible linings and broken-up surfaces show how garments are built. - Vogue, 2026-09-24: [Francesco Murano Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/francesco-murano). Francesco Murano shaped jersey into armor-like folds and made dresses from geometric panels. - WWD, 2026-09-24: [MM6 Maison Margiela: A Sixth Sense](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/milan/mm6-maison-martin-margiela/review/). Garments swap roles, such as a dress shirt worn as a dress or a skirt pulled over the chest. - Vogue, 2026-09-23: [MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/mm6-maison-martin-margiela). Proportions, closures and openings shift so everyday garments can be worn in new ways. - Vogue, 2026-09-22: [Rory William Docherty Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/rory-william-docherty). Rory William Docherty transformed one shirt detail through elaborate drawing, knotting and material experiments. - Vogue, 2026-09-22: [Diesel Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/diesel). Deconstruction runs throughout, with shirts and tailoring twisted and partly torn away from the body. - WWD, 2026-09-22: [Diesel Spring 2027: Hot and Heavy](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/milan/diesel/review/). Hybrid pieces fuse trucker jackets and quarter-zips, denim jackets and polos, jeans and socks. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Simone Rocha Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/simone-rocha). Simone Rocha used metallic threads to make taffeta dresses hold manipulated shapes. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [McQueen Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen). McQueen interrupted formal gowns with harnesses, distorted fabric and corsets extending beyond the shoulders. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Roksanda Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/roksanda). Roksanda built gowns from yarn and transformed painted silk scarves into adjustable dress or tunic shapes. - Vogue, 2026-09-20: [Yaku Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/yaku). Yaku combined family stories with fantastical detailing, exaggerated props and unusually constructed clothing. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Chopova Lowena Spring 2027: On Pins and Needles](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/chopova-lowena/review/). Chopova Lowena made complex runway layers from detachable apron and carabiner components. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Yuhan Wang Spring 2027: Sweet Dreams, Beautiful Nightmare](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/yuhan-wang/review/). Yuhan Wang combined drawer-like clothing constructions with transformed bedroom objects and displaced lingerie. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Knwls Spring 2027: Time to Grow Up](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/knwls/review/). KNWLS used concealed construction to hold seemingly falling-apart garments in place. - WWD, 2026-09-20: [Paolo Carzana Spring 2027: Mysteries of the Cloth](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/paolo-carzana/review/). Paolo Carzana layered shredded knits and very light woven fabrics into unconventional, shrouded forms. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Chopova Lowena Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/chopova-lowena). Chopova Lowena combined folk costume, fantastical creature references and bowling-inspired clothing. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Yuhan Wang Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/yuhan-wang). Yuhan Wang turned drawers, crockery and dressing-table objects into surreal clothing details. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Knwls Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/charlotte-knowles). Knowles described the collection as lots of deconstruction and layering, after women half undressed in Chambre Close. - Vogue, 2026-09-19: [Pauline Dujancourt Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/pauline-dujancourt). Pauline Dujancourt used labour-intensive woven flowers and emotional textile experiments to build fantastical clothing. - WWD, 2026-09-19: [Fashion East Spring 2027: Trying Out Ideas](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/fashion-east/review/). Fashion East designers tested new processes, including knitted tailoring resembling crumpled paper. - WWD, 2026-09-19: [Petra Fagerström Spring 2027: Duality of a Woman](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/petra-fagerstrom/review/). Petra Fagerström developed deceptive hybrid garments and hand-sewn pleats that revealed two different images. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Fashion East Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/fashion-east). Newcomer Mé Mé showed romantic deconstruction, with organza gowns taken apart and broken-down tailoring. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Ashley Williams Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/ashley-williams). Ashley Williams distorted familiar girlhood references through unusual combinations and surreal construction. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Natasha Zinko Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/natasha-zinko). Natasha Zinko distorted role-play clothing with padded corsetry, stiff bonded fabrics and unusual functional details. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Susan Fang Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/susan-fang). Susan Fang combined manipulated ceramic imagery with intricate printed lace and experimental layered surfaces. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Mowalola Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/mowalola). Mowalola closed with a dress incorporating broken plastic plates transformed into shiny decorative pieces. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Paolo Carzana Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/paolo-carzana). Ritual-like staging, wimple-style headdresses and wrapped, knotted layers built an otherworldly myth. - Vogue, 2026-09-18: [Petra Fagerström Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/petra-fagerstrom). Petra Fagerström fused a trench and leather skirt suit into one garment and used prints that changed with movement. - WWD, 2026-09-18: [Susan Fang Spring 2027: A Floating World](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/london/susan-fang/review/). Susan Fang placed dimensional printed lace over transparent clothing and developed digitally generated patterns. - Vogue, 2026-09-17: [Mithridate Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/mithridate). Mithridate transformed feathers into architectural hip shapes and individual beads into tartan fabric. - WWD, 2026-09-16: [Thom Browne Spring 2027: A Bug’s Life](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/new-york/thom-browne/review/). Thom Browne turned beetle and ladybug shells into large bulbous couture shapes, which he described as conceptual. - Vogue, 2026-09-15: [Thom Browne Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/thom-browne). Thom Browne moved into conceptual pieces, applying patchwork to three-dimensional insect shells on skirts and bodices. - WWD, 2026-09-14: [Lii Spring 2027: Retro Futurism](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/new-york/lii/review/). The review credits Li with avant-garde silhouettes balanced by commercial wearability. - Dazed, 2026-09-29: [Glenn Martens gives Raf Simons his flowers at Margiela SS27](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71076/1/maison-margiela-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-glenn-martens-dior-raf-simons). Maison Margiela disrupted familiar construction, turning coat linings into dresses and mixing fluid fabric with hard inserts. - Numéro Netherlands, 2026-09-30: [PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 2](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-2). Anrealage made scale-covered dresses that changed their colors and patterns electronically. - Numéro Netherlands, 2026-09-29: [PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 1](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-1). Julie Kegels used weighted hems and falling pigment; Hodakova turned marine materials into clothing. - WWDJAPAN, 2026-09-13: [Pillings finds everyday richness in morning glories and 'weeping thread'](https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/2495901). Pillings turned deliberate dye transfer, textile shrinkage and distorted forms into design features. - Vogue Runway, 2026-09-02: [Pillings Tokyo Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2027/pillings). Pillings distorted familiar knitwear and shirting, then created dresses from fabric usually reserved for corsages. - Vogue Runway, 2026-08-10: [Akikoaoki Tokyo Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2027/akikoaoki). Akikoaoki altered conventional tailoring and eveningwear, combining opened blazer sleeves, rumpled dresses and hoodies extended into lace skirts. - Vogue Runway, 2026-08-06: [Collina Strada Copenhagen Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2027/collina-strada). Collina Strada used existing materials for unusually intricate fantasy garments, including a dress constructed from eighteen textiles. - Vogue Runway, 2026-08-04: [Studio Constance Copenhagen Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2027/studio-constance). Studio Constance shifted from familiar outerwear to disorienting historical shapes inspired by personal feelings and changing body proportions. - Fashion Forum, 2026-08-04: [The dystopian fashion resort: inside Sson’s presentation](https://fashionforum.dk/2026/08/04/the-dystopian-fashion-resort-inside-ssons-presentation/). Sson transformed jackets, polos, sweaters and bags into unfamiliar garments while keeping their original forms recognizable. - Vogue Runway, 2026-08-03: [Anne Sofie Madsen Copenhagen Spring 2027 Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2027/anne-sofie-madsen). Anne Sofie Madsen used square-based pattern cutting and invented plant forms to propose unfamiliar clothing shapes. - Fashion Forum: [Anne Sofie Madsen’s cubist experiment](https://fashionforum.dk/2026/08/03/anne-sofie-madsens-cubist-experiment/). Anne Sofie Madsen treated square-cut fabric and geometric folding as a design experiment. Summaries are written by T-Fashion. Read each article at the source. ## Top designers by look count - Rick Owens: 74 - Thom Browne: 63 - Issey Miyake: 49 - 290 more designers in T-Fashion ## By fashion week - Paris: 36.9% of looks (794 looks) - Milan: 24.2% of looks (478 looks) - New York: 23.7% of looks (754 looks) - London: 44.2% of looks (641 looks) ## Worn with - Dress (apparel): 33% of the trend's looks - Skirts (apparel): 31% of the trend's looks - Black (color): 38% of the trend's looks - White (color): 31% of the trend's looks - Sculptural (theme): 40% of the trend's looks - Monochrome (theme): 16% of the trend's looks ## Runway looks 11 of 3,233 looks. Every look is in T-Fashion. - Roksanda look 24, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/roksanda/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0024-70b8d05e.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Marques’almeida look 32, Milan: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/milan/marques-almeida/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0032-f9685eb7.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Chika Kisada look 1, Tokyo: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/tokyo/chika-kisada/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0001-0078d7fc.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Anne Sofie Madsen look 1, Copenhagen: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/copenhagen/anne-sofie-madsen/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0001-81dba3cb.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Lii look 20, New York: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/new-york/lii/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0020-f5ccf775.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Rory William Docherty look 17, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/rory-william-docherty/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0017-a33df433.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Bora Aksu look 26, London: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/london/bora-aksu/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0026-cd91b64e.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Institution By Galib Gassanoff look 12, Milan: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/milan/institution-by-galib-gassanoff/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0012-b3c548d4.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Area look 25, New York: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/new-york/area/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0025-c0f89889.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Rick Owens look 23, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/rick-owens/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0023-63f8518f.jpg?format=auto&width=640 - Maison Margiela look 62, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/maison-margiela/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0062-163c6352.jpg?format=auto&width=640 ## FAQ **How popular was Avant-Garde at the SS27 womenswear shows?** Avant-Garde appeared in 3,233 looks from 293 designers. That is 31.6% of all looks T-Fashion analyzed for the SS27 womenswear shows. **Is Avant-Garde a trend for spring 2027?** Fading on the runways. Its share of looks is 31.6%, down from 36.9% in SS26. **Which designers showed the most Avant-Garde for SS27?** Rick Owens (74 looks), Thom Browne (63 looks) and Issey Miyake (49 looks). **Which fashion week showed the most Avant-Garde?** London, where 44.2% of looks carried it (641 looks). **How does T-Fashion measure this?** T-Fashion tags every look of every Spring/Summer 2027 show. The share of looks is the number of looks with the theme divided by all womenswear looks in the scope. The change compares that share with SS26. ## Related trends - [Minimalist](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/minimalist): 25.8% of looks - [90s Retro](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/90s-retro) - [Glam](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/glam): 12.2% of looks - [Androgynous](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/androgynous): 11.7% of looks - [Western](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/western) - [Preppy](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/preppy) - [Monochrome](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/monochrome): 19.3% of looks - [Rock](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/rock) This page is a preview. Every look, the full ranking and the designer and city breakdowns are in T-Fashion: [get access](https://tfashion.ai/book-demo).