# Avant-Garde Trend, Spring 2027 · Paris Fashion Week

Source: https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/avant-garde
Data refreshed: October 2, 2026

Avant-Garde appeared in 34.2% of looks at the Paris Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows, down from 38.7% in SS26. 55 designers showed it across 591 looks.

## Numbers

- Share of looks: 34.2%
- Share in SS26: 38.7%
- Change: −4.5 pts (fading)
- Looks: 591
- Designers: 55
- Rank: #1 of 26 key themes by share of looks

## In the press

Avant-Garde came up in 15 articles from Vogue, WWD, CNN and 4 more. In the data it was in 34.2% of looks, down from 38.7% in SS26.

- Vogue, 2026-10-01: [Rick Owens Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/rick-owens). Rick Owens closed with unusual tulle and elastic structures derived from earlier exoskeleton experiments.
- WWD, 2026-10-01: [Rick Owens Spring 2027: In This Column](https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2027/paris/rick-owens/review/). Rick Owens made elastic-threaded tulle structures that enclosed the body and changed shape with movement.
- Vogue, 2026-09-29: [Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/marie-adam-leenaerdt). Marie Adam-Leenaerdt gave everyday clothing unusual forms, including wire-supported skirts and jackets shaped like padded shopping bags.
- CNN, 2026-09-30: [Here’s what’s happening at Paris Fashion Week](https://www.cnn.com/2026/09/30/style/paris-fashion-week-highlights-from-the-shows). Rick Owens threaded tulle onto elastic cords to form moving, tentacle-like dresses.
- Dazed, 2026-09-29: [In pictures: Julie Kegels SS27 wasn’t bowed by the weight of expectation](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71062/1/julie-kegels-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-lvmh-prize). Julie Kegels used gravity as a design idea, pulling heavier clothes downward and letting lighter gowns float.
- Dazed, 2026-09-29: [It’s plain sailing at Hodkova’s SS27 sea-inspired show](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71065/1/hodkova-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-sea-inspired-show-ocean). Hodakova used sails, rope knots and fishing nets as garment materials.
- RUSSH, 2026-10-01: [All the highlights from Paris Fashion Week SS27](https://www.russh.com/paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2027-highlights/). Hodakova used sails, rope and fishing nets for clothing; Julie Kegels explored the appearance of falling garments.
- Numéro Netherlands, 2026-10-02: [PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 4](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-4). Alainpaul deconstructed garments and stage costumes; Balenciaga applied couture methods to ordinary clothing.
- Numéro Netherlands, 2026-09-30: [PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 2](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-2). Anrealage made scale-covered dresses that changed their colors and patterns electronically.
- nss magazine: [Dries Van Noten SS27 in Paris: a Belgian summer of colour and psychedelia](https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/47077/light-and-air-in-dries-van-noten-s-ss27-collection). Dries Van Noten combined color, fabric and shape in a layered proposal the reviewer described as highly experimental.
- Vogue, 2026-09-29: [Anrealage Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/anrealage). Morinaga's experimental tech and material innovation sit at the core of his avant-garde approach, from color-changing E-ink dresses to LED bodysuits.
- Vogue, 2026-09-28: [Hodakova Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/hodakova). Hodakova remade trousers as a dress and jacket, and used sails, rope and fishing nets as clothing materials.
- Vogue, 2026-09-28: [Julie Kegels Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection](https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2027-ready-to-wear/julie-kegels). Julie Kegels explored gravity through falling garments, weighted dresses and pigment released through organza.
- Dazed, 2026-09-29: [Glenn Martens gives Raf Simons his flowers at Margiela SS27](https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/71076/1/maison-margiela-ss27-paris-fashion-week-pfw-glenn-martens-dior-raf-simons). Maison Margiela disrupted familiar construction, turning coat linings into dresses and mixing fluid fabric with hard inserts.
- Numéro Netherlands, 2026-09-29: [PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027: DAY 1](https://www.numeronetherlands.com/fashion/paris-fashion-week-springsummer-2027-day-1). Julie Kegels used weighted hems and falling pigment; Hodakova turned marine materials into clothing.

Summaries are written by T-Fashion. Read each article at the source.

## Top designers by look count

- Dries Van Noten: 35
- Vaquera: 35
- Alainpaul: 34
- 52 more designers in T-Fashion

## Worn with

- Dress (apparel): 28% of the trend's looks
- Pants (apparel): 26% of the trend's looks
- Black (color): 41% of the trend's looks
- White (color): 24% of the trend's looks
- Sculptural (theme): 36% of the trend's looks
- Monochrome (theme): 14% of the trend's looks

## Runway looks

11 of 591 looks. Every look is in T-Fashion.

- Kiko Kostadinov look 3, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/kiko-kostadinov/ready_to_wear_menswear/photos/0003-d07718e5.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Maison Margiela look 62, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/maison-margiela/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0062-163c6352.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Balenciaga look 72, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/balenciaga/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0072-2823f0cd.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Jw Anderson look 27, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/jw-anderson/ready_to_wear/photos/0027-4b24d584.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Hodakova look 48, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/hodakova/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0048-402ae874.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Anrealage look 22, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/anrealage/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0022-4b04ce77.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Vaquera look 5, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/vaquera/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0005-67f94226.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Marie Adam Leenaerdt look 5, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/marie-adam-leenaerdt/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0005-e4af2e79.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Torishéju look 11, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/torisheju/ready_to_wear/photos/0011-9f82954f.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Saint Laurent look 59, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/saint-laurent/ready_to_wear_womenswear/photos/0059-2b7fd5bd.jpg?format=auto&width=640
- Tom Ford look 23, Paris: https://assets.tfashion.ai/v3/images/fashion-weeks/shows/spring-summer-2027/paris/tom-ford/ready_to_wear/photos/0023-a1e25725.jpg?format=auto&width=640

## FAQ

**How popular was Avant-Garde at the Paris Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows?**

Avant-Garde appeared in 591 looks from 55 designers. That is 34.2% of all looks T-Fashion analyzed for the Paris Fashion Week SS27 womenswear shows.

**Is Avant-Garde a trend for spring 2027?**

Fading on the runways. Its share of looks is 34.2%, down from 38.7% in SS26.

**Which designers showed the most Avant-Garde for SS27?**

Dries Van Noten (35 looks), Vaquera (35 looks) and Alainpaul (34 looks).

**How does T-Fashion measure this?**

T-Fashion tags every look of every Spring/Summer 2027 show. The share of looks is the number of looks with the theme divided by all womenswear looks in the scope. The change compares that share with SS26.

## Related trends

- [Minimalist](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/minimalist): 27.4% of looks
- [Androgynous](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/androgynous): 15.6% of looks
- [90s Retro](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/90s-retro)
- [Glam](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/glam): 10.7% of looks
- [Indie](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/indie)
- [80s Retro](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/80s-retro)
- [Utilitarian](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/utilitarian)
- [Preppy](https://tfashion.ai/runway/ss27/paris/preppy)

This page is a preview. Every look, the full ranking and the designer and city breakdowns are in T-Fashion: [get access](https://tfashion.ai/book-demo).